Classification of yarns

Classification of yarns

Yarns are slim, flexible strips made from textile fibers. They have specific mechanical properties. There are many varieties of yarns with different names and classification methods. Textile fibers are the basic units of yarns. They are split into short fibers and filaments. So, there are two main types of yarns: short-staple yarns and filament yarns. Besides, there are various special yarns with novel appearances and complex structures.

Spun yarn

Spun yarn is yarn spun from short fibers (including natural short fibers and chemically cut fibers).

1. Classification by the combination

(1) Single yarn: Short fibers are arranged and twisted along the axis of the yarn to form a single yarn.

(2) Ply yarn: Two or more single yarns are combined and twisted to form a ply yarn.

(3) Double-twisted ply yarn: Two or more ply yarns are combined and twisted to form a double-twisted ply yarn.

2. Classification by fiber type

(1) Pure spun yarn: yarn spun from one fiber, such as cotton yarn, wool yarn, linen yarn, polyester yarn, and lard yarn.

(2) Blended yarn: yarn spun from two or more fibers. For example, a blend of 65% polyester and 35% cotton is polyester/cotton yarn.

3. Classification by spinning process

(1) Cotton yarn is divided into carded yarn, combed yarn, and waste yarn.

(2) Wool yarn is divided into carded yarn, combed yarn, and waste yarn.

Classification by spinning process

4. Classification by type of textile machine

(1) Ring yarn: yarn spun by traditional ring spinning machine.

(2) New yarn: yarn spun by various new spinning machines (such as rotor spinning machine, air jet spinning machine, self-twist spinning machine, friction spinning machine, electrostatic spinning machine, etc.).

5. Length of chemical staple fibers

(1) Cotton-type chemical fiber yarn: The length is close to that of cotton fiber, generally 30-40 mm.

(2) Wool-type chemical fiber yarn: The length is close to that of wool fiber, generally 70-150 mm.

(3) Medium-length chemical fiber yarn: The length is between cotton and wool.

6. Classification by yarn thickness

Cotton or cotton-type chemical fiber yarn is divided into extra-fine yarn (≤10tex), fine yarn (11-20tex), medium yarn (21-31tex), coarse yarn (≥32tex), and wool or wool-type chemical fiber is divided into extra-fine yarn (≤12tex), fine yarn (12-31tex), coarse yarn (≥31tex)

Filament yarn

1. Flat yarn: A continuous single fiber with a very long length.

2. Multifilament yarn: A bundle of two or more monofilament yarns combined together.

3. Twisted yarn: Twisted yarn is formed by twisting multiple yarns

4. Composite twisted yarn: Twisted yarn is twisted once or multiple times to form composite twisted yarn.

5. Deformed yarn: Straight and smooth chemical fiber raw yarn is deformed to show curling, loops, spirals and other appearance characteristics and has fluffy and elastic properties. Such filament yarn is called deformed yarn.

Deformed yarn has two categories. The first is stretch yarn, which is mostly elastic. It quickly recovers after being stretched. The second category is fluffy yarn, which includes air-deformed yarn and network yarn.

Filament yarn

Special yarn

1. Fancy yarn

(1) Fluffy yarn: Two fibers with different shrinkage rates are blended into yarn and treated in steam, hot air or boiling water. High shrinkage fiber shrinks more and sits in the center of the yarn. Low shrinkage fiber shrinks less and is pressed on the yarn’s surface. This forms yarn loops, creating a fluffy, soft, and warm yarn.

(2) Core-spun yarn: Made of two fibers. The core is often made from strong, elastic chemical fiber filaments like polyester, nylon, and spandex. The outer fiber usually consists of short fibers such as cotton, wool, linen, silk, acrylic, and viscose. Core-spun yarn can combine the excellent characteristics of core yarn fiber and outer fiber, and complement each other. It is widely used as denim and knitted fabrics, which are flexible and comfortable to wear.

Fancy yarn

2. Other special yarns

Recently, traditional ring spinning machines have seen many technical updates. These changes help create a variety of special structure yarns.

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